Research & Development
Active Ingredients | Anti-Oxidants
Vitamin E Skin Care | Vitamin C Skin Care | Vitamin A Skin Care
We are always researching skincare ingredients so that the latest improvements can be incorporated into our products. Recently, we under took a review of these so called super anti-oxidants used by many of the "big" companies. The review essentially involved researching the clinical testing and their results.
Our first finding was that there are no clinical trials that support the claims for the use of these ingredients in topical applications. There was however, support for their use in selective and specific oral applications. In other words, taken orally, yes, these anti-oxidants can produce results, but there is no evidence that these super anti-oxidants work on the skin.
It should be noted that most if not all these products are be brought in from the USA and typically follow the latest buzz word trail; here today, something new tomorrow to pull the unsuspecting consumer in.
The most effective anti-oxidant for the skin is Vitamin E in the form of mixed tocopherols, clinical test are overwhelmingly in support of this vitamin as the primary anti-oxidant. Vitamin C has been promoted as a major anti-oxidant but is in fact only a secondary scavenger. Whilst Vitamin A is a supportive vitamin in when used in conjunction with vitamin E skin care - this is a synergetic relationship.
So it's important to understand that many actives do not work topically.
The other two major considerations with regards to all actives in a formula have to do with firstly, how much of the active is used, and secondly, what kind of base is used.
How much of the active ingredient is used?
The level of the active is represented by the percentage of the active used in a product. In the case of anti oxidants, such as vitamin E, you will find that in nearly all cases, the level used by big manufacturers is approximatley 0.05 of 1%. Now, it's important to understand that this level is sufficient to look after the formula but does little for the skin. So why don't they simply put in more actives in the formula? The reason is that it is very expensive, and as long as these companies can claim that the ingredient is used in their product (even if it's not going to be of benefit to our skin), they will keep the included level to a minimum.
What makes alizé's products different? We use more active ingredients despite the cost. We guarantee our products - so that means we have to deliver results. Our Cream Elegance for example contains 3% of mixed tocopherols of Vitamin E, and that's why it works so well. It is very costly to add this amount to a formula; it's about 35% of the total formula cost.
What kind of base cream is used?
The second point to consider has to do with what kind of cream base is used to house the active ingredients. If the base is made up of occlusive ingredients such as micro zinc and other sunscreen agents then the actives will be blocked and will never get to penetrate the skin. The correct use of emulsifiers and the combination of emulsifiers with in a formula also have a large effect as to there effectiveness on the skin and the ability to carry actives into the epiderm. In other words, you should be extremely weary of companies promoting products which claim to have active ingredients in combination with 30+ sunscreen factor… the active ingredients will simply not work.
We here at alizé strongly advise against the use of 30+ sunscreens as a substitute to a day cream. We believe that the best skin care procedure is to firstly apply a good day cream, and then follow with the sunscreen product.
Get FREE advice for your skin type & condition
Our products are now available to the public via this website. We recommend that you email Ian, the Head of Research & Development here at alizé, explain your skin condition & he will get back to you with a prescription of alizé products tailored for your skin type & condition.